Musselburgh

I have been privileged to play on golf courses that have played a significant part in the sport’s history, but Musselburgh Old Links was different. 

For less than £25, players can step into the shoes of Open champions from the late 1800s. 

Though the oldest course in the world has changed over the decades, it still retains an atmosphere of yesteryear.

We had the good fortune to play with a former secretary and a club historian, who brought the nine holes to life with fantastic tales of its fabled past. 

The visit was extra-special for me because it marked the completion of my quest to play all 14 Open venues. The contrast with the other 13 could not be starker.

The course is nestled within the Musselburgh racetrack, and the horse racing facilities dwarf those of the golf club. 

Tickets are purchased from a small office, and the clubhouse—akin to a museum with some fabulous artefacts—is across the road.

On the course itself, the player faces links that are raw yet beguiling. 

Unfortunately, the lack of summer rain meant it wasn't at its best, but I still thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

The opening hole is a 240-yard par-three from the back tee, with the racecourse grandstand in the background. 

I would have preferred the full challenge, but we played from the forward tees that day.

Consequently, I escaped with a par, having hit a few feet through the green. Interestingly, the nearest racetrack railings are not out of bounds; there is a drop zone for those whose balls come to rest against them.

After a selfie next to the sign proclaiming it the world's oldest golf course, we took on the tricky second hole. 

This is known as Graves because it is believed to be the burial ground for soldiers who died at the Battle of Pinkie Cleugh between the armies of England and Scotland in 1547. 

I'll remember it because my Podcast Partner faded his drive onto the railway track, and I managed to snap his photo next to the one-furlong marker. 

I laughed until I did the same on the third, a par–four that runs even tighter to the track! 

It should be noted that the grass for the horses is much lusher than the turf for golfers, and balls can be surprisingly tricky to find if they stray in that direction.

My favourite hole on the course is the most difficult: the par-four fourth. 

Here, the drive needs to go over the rails on the bend of the track down to the corner of the property, culminating in a green in front of the famous Mrs Forman’s House. 

We were told that beer was once served from a window here to thirsty golfers. Sadly, it is a private dwelling nowadays. 

In the distant past, the road next to the green was in play, but golfers lost a battle with local authorities who believed they were disrupting traffic (horses and carts).

The fifth is a par-three outside the racetrack, and the sixth, with Arthur’s Seat as a backdrop, is a par-four back over the railings. 

We were told how land was reclaimed from the sea to the right of the seventh, the only par-five on the course. 

This explains why a painting in the clubhouse shows golf originally being played directly next to the brine, which is now out of view. 

My second shot on the seventh was my last visit to the track, but I managed to clip the ball from there onto the green and claim a par.

The final hole is a bending short par-four with sand traps and bushes down the left and a bunker down the right. 

Accuracy is also required with an approach into a green defended by bunkers on either side.

Musselburgh’s course is entertaining, but to complete the experience, a visit to the clubhouse is a must. Manned by volunteers, it is a treasure trove of memories from golf’s past.

The day was especially memorable for a few personal touches. 

I was presented with a framed memento of ball markers from all 14 Open courses, kindly left by my friend Richard, with whom I had recently played at Loch Lomond. 

Additionally, our host gave me a Musselburgh flag to celebrate the 350th anniversary of golf being known to have been played on the links. 

I felt humbled and a little emotional, and I will never forget our day there.