Te Arai (South)

How many times would you expect to say “wow” during a round of golf?

I reckon I uttered it between eight and a dozen times along the Pacific coastline at Te Arai’s South course.

This was the third day of world-class golf on a small stretch of land near the remote North Island town of Mangawhai.

A quick Google search suggests the area is a renowned holiday destination, famous for its “stunning surf beaches,” sheltered harbour, and the iconic Bennett’s chocolate factory. Almost from nowhere, it has become New Zealand's golf mecca.

Te Arai’s South course is the older of the resort’s pair. Its first tee sits adjacent to arguably the largest practice putting green in the world—a fantastic attraction for families who, putter in hand, try their luck after dining at the neighbouring restaurant.

This sums up the Te Arai's. ethos: it may be a five-star venue, but "fun" is the name of the game.

The South course, designed by Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw, delivers exactly that.

While the greens here are tricky, they are less dramatic than those created by Tom Doak on the neighbouring North course.

The South is intended to give mid-handicappers a better chance to score—not that I noticed, after "blobbing" the first two holes.

Those openers and the third are the only inland holes, set against a backdrop of pines rather than the ocean.

They still feature the subtle green borrows Coore favours, along with alarming drop-offs for those who are awry or overly aggressive.

The third, an ascending par-four playing to a perched green protected by a giant bunker, leads splendidly into the drama about to unfold.

It is followed by an astounding par-four that twists around a forest on the right, descending toward a target framed by the glorious coastline and those famous Te Arai sandscrapes.

From that point on, the South course is mesmerising. Inspired by the surroundings, my game finally began to click.

The fifth is a picturesque downhill par-three with an "infinity" green, the azure ocean behind it and Hen and Chicks Island in the distance. It was not the last time I fluffed a birdie putt.

The fairways on the South are wide and the turf beautifully tight, meaning only the truly wayward will find the sand and perilous bushes.

This includes the par-four sixth, which rises before falling away to a green that slopes menacingly from back to front.

The views of waves crashing onto the shore are arguably best from the eighth tee—another sumptuous par-three over sand and scrub.

It is near-impossible to lose a tee at Te Arai South because the tee boxes are so large and beautifully manicured.

Meanwhile, the fairways run seamlessly into the greens, allowing the putter to be used from almost anywhere.

The front nine concludes with a "corker" of a dogleg par-four, moving uphill to a green perched above a large bunker.

My driving had been consistent until the long 11th—a fabulous par-four that charges directly towards the sea with waste areas flanking the right. I found the sand and limped to a single Stableford point, struggling to recover ground. 

Greed then got the better of me on the 13th, a spectacular par-five that sweeps from left to right. My second shot landed just short of the cavernous bunker protecting the flag; I "dobbed" my chip into the sand and failed my first recovery.

I loved the 14th, a par-four so short that our host waited for the green to clear before wielding his driver. My less powerful tee shot found the middle of the fairway, allowing me to avoid the hazards and secure a straightforward par.

Our host lashed his much further but into the waste area and lost the ball. I’d like to think there’s a lesson in that, though overall, he played significantly better than I did.

The remaining holes run parallel to the beach back towards the clubhouse. The 15th is a meandering par-four with a tighter landing area and two bunkers defending a raised green.

The 16th is shorter but devilish, featuring a wicked dip in front of the green to thwart those attempting to run the ball toward the flag.

The finale at Te Arai South is among the very best. The 17th is a spellbinding downhill par-three toward the ocean, with the green tucked between a cavern of sand on the left and a giant bunker on the right.

I thought I’d hit a perfect eight-iron, but it lolloped past the hole, leaving me with a very missable birdie putt.

My best chance of glory came on the last, a par-five flanked by Te Arai’s luxury lodges and its exclusive members’ bar.

My approach ran inside the sand on the right to about 15 feet, but the birdie putt stayed wide, and the champagne remained uncorked.

Nevertheless, this was the culmination of a truly remarkable three days.

This piece of land is already being lauded for its architectural excellence and is destined to become one of golf's great pilgrimages.